Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Belize Jungle Crossing

Hot! I mean really hot! Not really sure if I am lost... I guess that just means we need to back track 3 days or so. Not like we would really die, but water was short as was the shade a few days before we had entered Belize.
The first day we only cycled 45k or so. It was getting dark and we found a field of cane to make camp. Waking early did little for us by way of getting ahead of the heat. Instead of taking the highway, which was in poor condition, out of the way, and going through dirty cities with lots of crime, we took the back roads.
These back roads are a dry season route through the jungle. Many people told us it is impossible at this time of year. We had heard from an English cyclist named Cass that we could follow our map and make it in 3 days. The maps we were able to get were cheesy tourist maps with funny drawings of animals and waterfalls etc. on them. Needless to say they did not cut it. We knew basically which way to go.
We followed directions to a town called Orange Walk. I mailed home some gear that I didn't need and we headed for this strange part of the country. All the farms are owned and run by Menonites. That is a link: they all dress in overalls or dresses and most only use horses and have no electricity. They are white folks living in Belize and they speak German. Wild! We ended the day camping at some Mayan Ruins called Lamanai. Jason and I took a walk at dusk and climbed the high temple and had 360º Views over the rolling jungle. Amazing.
That night it started raining...and raining...for 3days rain! We developed extremely soft skin. Our skin seemed to tear open with any force, not to mention the rashes from heat and moisture in the jungle. That day after pushing our bikes through dense mud in a direction we were pointed, we were down. I was convinced that we were going the wrong way. but after many lucky guesses on which way to go at the fork in the road we found a gate at Hill Bank. There was no one there so we made ouselves at home. Set up camp, and made a fire to push back the ridiculous mass of mosquitoes, like biblical proportions night and day. ALWAYS MOSQUITOES! This torture tends to get you down. I did however find some puddles and swam in them to cool off.
We left Hill Bank in the morning and cycled in the heat and torture of not knowing if we are going the right way. The rain was welcomed because of the heat but we needed to stay dry! We were prunes. At one junction that day we stopped and waited, hoping maybe a car or truck would pass the roads and look to have some occasional inhabitants as well as some logging traffic. No signs of life all day. Nobody. We were alone.
Around 5 we decided to pick a way and go. After 30 minutes we were out and on populated roads. We stopped to camp and seemed to be a town spectacle. Everyone wanted to talk to us. The next morning we were one hour away from the border town, but a long 4 hours later we made it to that town called San Ignacio. There was flooding on the river so the first bridge was out causing our delay. Back to civilization and luxaries, like eating. I ran out of food the night before, and man I was hungry. But wow what a trip, and just a slice of what has been happening.

Photos from Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala.

47! Need I say more?



Beer break in Mahahual, Mexico



We woke up this morning at 5 to beat the heat. Jeff was ill with a mosquito illness and feeling weak. His flat tire was the mother of a new way to move this day. We trucked it 30k or so and stayed mostly cool.



Pulling into Bacalar.



Bacalar



My bike in the reflection. I stopped to have a cold drink.



Bacalar lagoon.



Water delivery by bike!



Some pirated CDs. Funny covers.



Bacalar, just stunning



After swimming in Cenote Azul, Jason and Mike were feelin spry



Sometimes we just need to rest and drink lots of fluids, it's hot!



Chetumal night scene, this border town is kinda weird.



Posing with a new grasshopper friend.



These things are beautiful. When they fly they have huge red wings.


Border to Belize, Mexican border guard tried to tell us we needed to pay 20 US dollars. We told him where he could stick it!




In a field bus stop in Belize, Jason striking a beatnic pose with a Papaya pipe.



Trashy- Orange Walk, Belize.

Lots of Cane in the north of Belize. You can smell it rotting on the roads and in the fields.



Not all the cane makes the factory, lots to run over.



In the middle of nowhere in Belize. Striking colors and views there!



My last functional photo of our off road jungle tour. It is impossible to captulate the jungle with a photo but the road was nice and the jungle incredible.


Jason was packing away this amazing fish with coconut curry creole sauce, so he had another meal, then another, etc. so we made a bet...

If he could eat 5 plates I would pay for the food.



oooh almost Jason! Pay up buddy.



Expensive ass Belize beers!



San Ignacio, Belize. What is that, hey has my sister Laura been here?
Looks like Sol would like Belize too!



Border into Guatemal. This is a quarantine station. Note that leaving Belize you need to pay an exit fee of almost 20 US Dollars. LAME!



The road in Guatemala had just been repaved, we were flying!



Diverse scenery.



In a town called El Remate, awesome place. 4 US Dollars per night!



Enjoying my spoils. In the first two days in Guatemala I found 9 awesome avocados!
heaven!



The lake just outside the hostel.



I switched to a small front tire for speed.



View from our dinner table at the hostel.




Nearing Tikal ruins site. That is a jaguar crossing sign, and a 47 just ahead.



Jungle tree in Tikal with exposed roots, cooler than it seems. Seriously!



So we snuck up atop the tallest of the temples. There was scaffolding to make it an easy climb. The views were incredible. After a few minutes there were three other people who climbed too. One apparently was an archeologist and wanted to get us in trouble. We climbed down and had to chat with the armed guard. He was chill but an American dude asked me if I saw the sign that said ¨do not enter¨, he was a complete jag and insited that we were the dregs of society. I told him to walk away and go home back to his desk. It was a really funny encounter, I guess he just doesn't know we are pirates!


Temple IV



As we were talking to the guard, he pointed out this cloud, strange colors inside. He said the sky was telling us something, he also liked that we told off the rude American dude. Funny thing about the American dude, he was wearing a Grateful Dead t-shirt and was telling us to follow the rules! I think he must be at least a little confused. I wonder if he would have been more upset knowing we snuck in the site too? 150Q is like 20 some dollars-that is too expensive, so we just snuck in. Pirates we!



Gran Plaza Tikal



Tikal temple V, I think




Check out the drawings. Showing human sacrifice and torture.



These animals are related to the racoon, but look like they are mixed with monkey.



We set out into the jungle to a ruin site called El Mirador. Supposed to be two days in and two days out. Too muddy to bike so we hiked. The mud was up to our knees. I only had flip flops so after 10 meters I was bare foot. Those thorns in my sleep mat were also in my feet. It was harsh and not fun. The reason the mud was so bad is they give tours to this site by mule. The mules make holes 6" deep all over and it catches rain and hardens. It is impossible to walk with girlie feet like mine. The mosquitoes were the worst I have yet seen as well. But Jason and I bailed on the trip and went back to the city to chill. Great choice, I am impressed by my intelligence, just not fun.



Mud up to my knees from the hike. If I could have taken a photo of the mosquitoes it would have been great- there were clouds around us. Disgusting! Think Malaria, Dengue, etc.